IIn the rotunda of the Capitol, the new first lady was nowhere to be seen. Technically, Melania Trump was in attendance, but she chose to make herself virtually invisible. Her dark flat hat was worn low, casting her entire face into shadow, preventing her from making eye contact with the camera or her guests. Paired with a serious turtleneck cut, it's a surprisingly somber fashion choice for the new president's wife on what could be a day of joy. Melania stayed out of the spotlight for much of Trump's first term, but she appears to be showing no more enthusiasm for a second term. Ratings on social media included "Dark MAGA" and "Gangster Wives at a Funeral."

The first lady's unwritten but widely understood role is to be the human face of government. Charm is important, but first ladies also represent accessibility, empathy and philanthropy. Melania has proven herself to be a disruptor. Her savagery "I really don't care. What about you?" She later said the jacket she wore during a 2018 visit to a child immigration detention center was a message directed toward "the left-wing media." As her husband was sworn in for a second time, Mera Nia's outfit took on a strange, doom-laden tone, contrasting with outgoing first lady Dr. Jill Biden's blowdry and racy purple cut.

At the 2017 inauguration, Melania surprised critics, who were waiting to tear apart a look that might have been too flashy or flashy with a stylus, by opting for a pastel Ralph Lauren suit, a nod to Jacqueline A tribute to JFK's timeless elegance. On that occasion, the sky-blue color and soft lines of her outfit contrasted sharply with her husband's now-infamous "American Holocaust" speech. This time, Melania brings an air of menace.

Melania's flat hat, made by New York milliner Eric Javits, pays homage to the young Princess Diana. Princess Diana wore a similar look in 1983 on tour in New Zealand, white with black sash, but she tilted the brim back and accessorized with a bright smile, creating a cheerful tone. Trump's fondness for the British royal family is well known, so it's perhaps no surprise if the "People's Princess" appears on Melania's mood board. Her navy double-breasted coat, paired with a matching pencil skirt and ivory silk blouse, is by independent designer and Ralph Lauren Design Studio alum Adam Lippes and has been previously worn by Jill Biden his clothes. In a statement, Lipps spoke of the honor as a designer for an occasion that "embodies the beauty of American democracy," adding that the outfit was hand-sewn in New York "by some of America's finest craftsmen." .

If Melania seemed less than enthusiastic about taking over the traditional first lady fashion baton, Ivanka Trump was there. The incoming president's eldest daughter, Ivanka, who understands the political considerations of sartorial choices, was perfect in a forest green skirt suit, while Nancy Reagan went for a classic silhouette and neat A draped neckline adjoins it. The look seemed to confirm Ivanka's intention to return to Trump's front lines. Her black Dior handbag matched her heels. Delphine Arnault, the CEO of Dior and the daughter of one of the world's richest men, happened to be standing just a few feet away.

The incoming administration's headline-grabbing shift in climate has been around America's return to what Mark Zuckerberg calls "masculine energy." The re-entrenchment of traditional gender roles at the inauguration did not go as far as some predicted, with the high-profile women around Trump flaunting their femininity. Melania stood next to her husband, enigmatic and monochromatic, giving the impression of a protective officer rather than a trophy wife. Both she and Ivanka kept their tumbling mermaid waves neatly out of sight. It was reserved for the wife of incoming Vice President Usha Vance, who channeled the forthright femininity of a populist princess in a bubblegum pink outfit and statement floral earrings, all smiles .

Trump's most visible current plus-one, Elon Musk, was more than happy to smile for the cameras, sitting in a prime seat next to the president's youngest son, Barron Trump. Musk swapped his signature bomber jacket for a starched white shirt and a classic black suit. Meta's Mark Zuckerberg also wore a suit and boots and left his new gold necklace at home. The garish pocket squares imitated by Joe Biden are absent from the suits of Trump's ilk, who prefer a bluntly masculine aesthetic of broad-shouldered suits and chunky ties.

Trump's signature bronzer seems designed to create a weathered, rugged look. He plays the macho cowboy who just rides into town. As for how Melania feels about this, we're still in the dark.