The advanced fashion industry has always been synonymous with thinness, but at a short time in the 2010s, the body's positive movement was at the forefront.
It promises to accept various shapes and sizes of the body, welcome the curve and advocate tolerance, especially on the runway.
But in 10 years, insiders in the industry have told us that the situation has changed. Is physical enthusiasm a flashing trend? Is it better to lose weight in weight loss pills (such as Ozempic)?
We talk to designers, actors, and models in Paris Fashion Week to investigate what is happening.
this Positive exercise It was discovered in the hazy era in the 1960s and obtained idols like Marilyn Monroe. He expanded Hollywood's rigid beauty standards.
It became the forefront again in the 2010s. At that time, Instagram was launched, and the influencers began to highlight fashion and beauty outside the "Light Magazine" and "outside the runway".
What helps this is the celebrity Kardashian family, which has triggered BBL (Brazil's buttocks) in all over the world.
Enrika is a 28 -year -old model. He said: "When the body actively moves, it feels incredible and liberated."
"This feels like a rebellion-what has been criticized has been appreciated now. It seems that we finally have enough trials."
The large size model booking for large brands, including Rihanna's mouth -watering underwear "Savage X Fenty", was launched in 2018.
The brand is worth $ 1 billion and is famous for its runway event. It is reminiscent of the iconic modern alternative to the iconic Victoria secret performance, but this time it shows each body type.
Felicity Hayward is a 36 -year -old model, and he reflects on the 2011 reconnaissance.
She said: "When I received a call from my first modeling agent storm -who found Kate Moss -I thought I was punk."
"Before the 2010s, the attitude around the larger body was not positive. I never thought it would be possible to become a large size model.
"In the past ten years, seeing this narrative change has always been emotional, physical and financially changing life."
But in around 2020, the progress began to slow down. In the autumn/winter of 2024, among the 8,800 appearances of 230 performances, only 0.8 % of the models, Vogue report
At the same time, a new type of diet pills for the treatment of diabetes entered the market and increased to popularity. Semaglutide, also known as ozempic, mounjaro and wegovy, inhibits the appetite of users, and it is Approved by NHS The weight loss in 2023.
Including celebrities Elon Musk (Elon Musk) Began to attribute this drug to their new and slim framework, which is only a matter of time, and then flows to consumers.
As OZEMPIC and its peers have become more commercial in the purpose of aesthetics, insiders in the industry claim that it affects the body's positive movement.
A former model of Moya said: "We have seen the speed of narrative change, celebrities and influential people use surgery or drugs (such as Ozempic) chasing things that are considered" popular "."
Another model Jenny said: "When I realized that thin and back, this was positive because I had to find more jobs.
"But I have realized that this means that I must keep up now. Now I must be SkinniEastEssence "
Even the editorial director of the British VOGUE also said The fashion industry "should follow" Through the recent trend, you can use more thin models
Lucky Tell BBC Radio 4's today: "I do think Ozempic may be related to it."
"At this moment, we saw the swing of swing back to weight loss', and these things are usually regarded as a trend. We don't want them to be."
Then, Namilia, the Berlin brand, was all the rage of T -shirts for "I love Ozempic" on their fashion week.
Nan Li, the creative director of the brand, said with a smile: "I love ozempic'teee is really nervous."
"With the rise of ozempic, many people have used it. In the past few years, celebrities have only lost weight without talking about it."
Fast to January, when a man's AW25 Fashion Week landed in Paris, the audience performed the LITMUS test in real time to exact its position on the brand.
In addition to the selected designers, including Rick Owens, LGN and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, I can also expect how many models of the size models I see in a week's performance.
Nanli said: "Paris celebrate eliteism, eliteism means thin and white."
"There are a few large-sized models (in performance), but they are not real plus numbers-they are normal. In each show, they will make the brand look positive."
In the hustle and bustle of Fashion Week, Shaun Beyen, the actor director of the iconic French brand Fursac, told the Broadcasting Corporation: "The only motivation for the brand is to sell clothes-that's it. I don't think we need to lie for this.
"The brand took the body's enthusiasm in the 2010s, because they partially regarded it as a business opportunity. When they saw that it no longer showed well, they hoped that they would jump up in the case of 2020. "
Beyen added: "It's completely transparent-I really don't want to see clothes like me. I want to see it on a person I desire to look like."
Fursac's creative director GAUTHIER BORSARELLO said with a smile: "I hate my body. I don't want to see people like me wearing clothes."
On the other hand, designers like Charles Jeffrey believe that the brand must be tolerant morality. He said: "Body enthusiasm has never been my trend." "This is an opportunity to start responsible."
The body's enthusiasm is woven to the structure of the Charles brand, and draws inspiration from the nightlife scene of Queer. This is obvious in his Paris Fashion Week performance.
The designer explained: "The people in my show are the people of my club. This is never the model of the model. It is my friend and their different body shape. This is a community around me. "
It seems that the reality is that designers like Charles are the exception of rules. Despite the anti -aggressive resistance, insiders in the industry confirm that the body's enthusiasm is behind us.
Daniel Mitchell-Jones, co-founder of the model chapter management of the modeling agency, said: "Yes, the situation has changed. In 2020 and 2021, we saw more diversity and more More diversity and tolerance-but the physical seat is now backward. "
Daniel said that when he sent the curve model to the casting, he was always promoted, but it was often told that the brand was not interested this season.
Large -size model Enrika told Broadcasting Corporation that not only booking large -sized models, but also their agents are actively trying to ensure their work.
She explained: "It is not uncommon to see the four sample size models and the advertising series with only one large -sized model. This will make you feel that you are just a token."
Enrika said that these brands sometimes use tactics in advertising series to make virtue signals inclusive-for example, highlighting stretch marks on large-sized models, and spraying guns to spray guns at the same time.
She said: "This issues such a message, 'we actually don't think you look as good as the slim models in the skirt. But we accept you because we are such a kind of good people." This is a nasty job. I don't support it. "
If you want to change, please change your purchase habits. At least, this is Shaun Beyen that "everything is driven by consumers."
"This is this vicious circle. Each fashion house gives them what they know. This is their explanation, depending on consumers."
"A famous French said:" If people stop production, people will stop buying. "However, if people stop buying, we will stop production.
"No one forced you to do anything. This is the education of customers: in a polite way-educate yourself."
One of the benefits of the body as a trend is that swinging will eventually go backwards. Bain said: "Nothing disappears, especially in fashion."